fashion

fashion

(Parte 1 de 5)

Bina aBling fashion sKETChBooKsixth edition

Heads Figure Work

Mixed Media Rendering

Design Detail

Flesh Tones

Fabric fashion s K ET

C h B o o K aBling sixth edition ashion Sketchbook, 6th Edition demystifies the fashion drawing process with simple, step-by-step directions. now in full color and completely revised, with updated instructions and images throughout, this introductory text explains how to draw women, men, and children, pose the figure, develop the fashion head and face, sketch accessories, add garment details, and prepare flats and specs. To accelerate comprehension and aid in the diversification of skills, Women’s Wear Daily photographs from the showroom and the runway accompany abling’s detailed, easy-to-follow lessons.

Ë|xHSLGKJy012281zv*:+:!:+:! ISBN: 978-1-60901-228-1

• Detailed explanation of fashion figure analysis • Clear instruction on drawing a variety of runway poses

• Photos of knit samples and garment details for visual reference

• Companion DVD with video of author demonstrating mixed media rendering techniques • additional focus on drawing men, children, luxury details, and flats and specs

• Updated appendix containing more than 400 garment and accessory references for fashion nomenclature features new to this edition

Posing Dynamics fashion illustration

Women’s Outerwear Flats

Menswear Tops Feathers, Fringe, and Lace sixth edition

Fairchild Books | New York sixth edition

Fairchild Books | New York

Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias Senior Associate Acquiring Editor: Jaclyn Bergeron Assistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda Breccia Associate Art Director: Sarah Silberg Development Editor: Beth Cohen Production Director: Ginger Hillman Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta Ancillaries Editor: Amy Butler Associate Director of Sales: Melanie Sankel Copyeditor: Susan Hobbs Cover Design: Carly Grafstein Cover Art: illustrations by Bina Abling, photography by Giovanni Giannoni (Gianfranco Ferre Spring 2012 RTW) Text Design and Composition: Carly Grafstein Photo Research: Avital Aronowitz Videographer and DVD Developer: Katie Fitzsimmons Camera Assistants: Frank Marino and Jay Catlett

Copyright © 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications.

All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: ISBN: 978-1-60901-228-1 GST R 133004424 Printed in Canada TP 14

Extended Contentsvii
Prefacexi
Tools and Equipment Hintsxiii
Chapter 1 Fashion Figure Proportions1
Chapter 2 Basic Figure Forms37
Chapter 3 Model Drawing61
Chapter 4 Fashion Heads81
Chapter 5 Garments and Garment Details107
Chapter 6 Drawing Flats and Specs141
Chapter 7 Basic Rendering Techniques181
Chapter 9 Drawing Knits265
Chapter 1 Drawing Men329
Chapter 12 Drawing Children377
Chapter 13 Accessories411
Fashion Archive443
Credits475
Index477

Chapter 8 High-End Rendering Techniques 223 Chapter 10 Design Focus and Layout 295 Contents

Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias Senior Associate Acquiring Editor: Jaclyn Bergeron Assistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda Breccia Associate Art Director: Sarah Silberg Development Editor: Beth Cohen Production Director: Ginger Hillman Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta Ancillaries Editor: Amy Butler Associate Director of Sales: Melanie Sankel Copyeditor: Susan Hobbs Cover Design: Carly Grafstein Cover Art: illustrations by Bina Abling, photography by Giovanni Giannoni (Gianfranco Ferre Spring 2012 RTW) Text Design and Composition: Carly Grafstein Photo Research: Avital Aronowitz Videographer and DVD Developer: Katie Fitzsimmons Camera Assistants: Frank Marino and Jay Catlett

Copyright © 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications.

All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: ISBN: 978-1-60901-228-1 GST R 133004424 Printed in Canada TP 14

Extended Contentsvii
Prefacexi
Tools and Equipment Hintsxiii
Chapter 1 Fashion Figure Proportions1
Chapter 2 Basic Figure Forms37
Chapter 3 Model Drawing61
Chapter 4 Fashion Heads81
Chapter 5 Garments and Garment Details107
Chapter 6 Drawing Flats and Specs141
Chapter 7 Basic Rendering Techniques181
Chapter 9 Drawing Knits265
Chapter 1 Drawing Men329
Chapter 12 Drawing Children377
Chapter 13 Accessories411
Fashion Archive443
Credits475
Index477

Chapter 8 High-End Rendering Techniques 223 Chapter 10 Design Focus and Layout 295 Contents vii

Prefacexi

Extended Contents Acknowledgments xii Tools and Equipment Hints xiii

Fashion Figure Proportions1
Fashion Figure Objectives12
Croquis Templates14

CHAPTER 1 Figure Elongation and Stylization 2 Guidelines 4 Heads Tall, Figure Grid 6 Figure Map, Grid System 8 Consistent Proportions 10 Drawing the Figure Freehand 16 Subjective Height 18 Posing Dynamics 20 The Balance Line 2 Center Front 24 Back Views 26 The Profile Pose 28 The Fuller Figure 30 Fashion Maternity Figures 32 Early Illustrations for Womenswear 34

CHAPTER 2 Basic Figure Forms 37 Torso Definition 38 Drawing Legs: Form and Shape 40 Posing Legs 42 Foreshortening: Legs 4 Drawing Feet 46 Drawing Arms: Form and Shape 50 Foreshortening: Arms 52 Drawing Hands 54 Figure Tips 56

CHAPTER 3 Model Drawing 61 Model Drawing Poses 62 Balance Line 63 Angles in a Pose 64 Torso in a Pose 6 Gesture Components 68 Interpreting Anatomy 70 Fashion Runway and Showroom Poses 72

CHAPTER 4 Fashion Heads 81 Drawing Heads and Fashion Faces 82 Drawing Heads 84 The Diamond Technique 86 Drawing a Full-Front Head 87 Drawing a Three-Quarter-Turned Head 8 Drawing a Profile Head 89 Fashion Faces, Sketching Features 90 Posing the Head 92 Sketching Features 94 Stylizing the Face 96 Rendering Hair Color 98 Fleshtone and Pencil 100 Period Looks 101 Fashion Heads, Runway Looks 102

Garments and Garment Details107

CHAPTER 5 Sketching Necklines and Collars 108 Sketching Sleeves 110 Sketching Blouses and Dresses 112 Sketching Skirts 114 Sketching Flares and Gathers 116 Sketching Pleats 118 vii

Prefacexi

Extended Contents Acknowledgments xii Tools and Equipment Hints xiii

Fashion Figure Proportions1
Fashion Figure Objectives12
Croquis Templates14

CHAPTER 1 Figure Elongation and Stylization 2 Guidelines 4 Heads Tall, Figure Grid 6 Figure Map, Grid System 8 Consistent Proportions 10 Drawing the Figure Freehand 16 Subjective Height 18 Posing Dynamics 20 The Balance Line 2 Center Front 24 Back Views 26 The Profile Pose 28 The Fuller Figure 30 Fashion Maternity Figures 32 Early Illustrations for Womenswear 34

CHAPTER 2 Basic Figure Forms 37 Torso Definition 38 Drawing Legs: Form and Shape 40 Posing Legs 42 Foreshortening: Legs 4 Drawing Feet 46 Drawing Arms: Form and Shape 50 Foreshortening: Arms 52 Drawing Hands 54 Figure Tips 56

CHAPTER 3 Model Drawing 61 Model Drawing Poses 62 Balance Line 63 Angles in a Pose 64 Torso in a Pose 6 Gesture Components 68 Interpreting Anatomy 70 Fashion Runway and Showroom Poses 72

CHAPTER 4 Fashion Heads 81 Drawing Heads and Fashion Faces 82 Drawing Heads 84 The Diamond Technique 86 Drawing a Full-Front Head 87 Drawing a Three-Quarter-Turned Head 8 Drawing a Profile Head 89 Fashion Faces, Sketching Features 90 Posing the Head 92 Sketching Features 94 Stylizing the Face 96 Rendering Hair Color 98 Fleshtone and Pencil 100 Period Looks 101 Fashion Heads, Runway Looks 102

Garments and Garment Details107

CHAPTER 5 Sketching Necklines and Collars 108 Sketching Sleeves 110 Sketching Blouses and Dresses 112 Sketching Skirts 114 Sketching Flares and Gathers 116 Sketching Pleats 118 viii EXTENDED CONTENTS ixEXTENDED CONTENTS

Child 384 Tween Boy 385 Tween to Teen 386 Teen Boy 387 Drawing Children’s Heads 388 Drawing Children’s Arms and Hands 390 Drawing Children’s Legs and Feet 392 Design Roughs for Childrenswear 394 Rendering Childrenswear 396 Flats for Children 398

Guest Artists Eri Mikami 400 Serena Chang 402 Callista Wolff 404 Anika Sushil Gupta 406 Early Childrenswear Illustrations: 1920 to 1930 408

Accessories411

CHAPTER 13 Jewelry Croquis 412 Jewelry Templates 414 Sunglasses 416 Hats and Gloves 418 Drawing Men’s Hats 420 Drawing Women’s Hats 421 Belts 422 Hardware for Belts and Bags 423 Handbags and Purses 424 Shoes 425 Footwear Designer Roughs 426 Sporty Shoes 428

Guest Artists LaToya Leflore 430 Jason Buchanon 432 Julian Guthrie 434

Malinda Franklin 436 Felice DaCosta 438 Early Accessories Illustrations: 1950s 440

FASHION ARCHIVE443
Credits475
Index477

Blouses, Skirts, and Dresses 120 Sketching Pants 122 Drawing Pants 124 Shorts and Pants 126 Sketching a Blazer 128 Drawing Jackets 130 Drawing Coats 132 Jackets and Coats 134

Guest Artists Aram Sung 136 Carmen Chen Wu 138

Drawing Flats and Specs141

CHAPTER 6 Flat Figure Templates 142 Figure Formulas for Flats 144 Tops: Templates for Shirts, Blouses, and Dresses 146

Pants, and Skirts148

Bottoms: Templates for Shorts,

Structure for Flats 150 Swimwear and Lingerie Flats 152 Comprehensive Flats 154 Women’s Outerwear Flats 156 Presentation or Portfolio Flats 158 Croquis Mixed with Flats 160 Flats and Figures Mixed 162 Specs 166 Measuring and Detailing for Specs 168 Analyzing a Garment for Flats or Specs 170 Flats and Specs 172 Spec Sheets 174

Guest Artists Christina Kwon 176 Jodie Lau 178

Basic Rendering Techniques181

CHAPTER 7 Rendering Fleshtones 182 Gouache 184 Mixing Colors for Watercolor 185 Rendering Fabrics in Watercolor 186 Reducing a Print 188 Finished versus Partial Rendering 190 Fabric Practice Templates 192 Color Testing 194 Color Nuances 196 Stripes 198 Checks, Gingham, and Plaids 200 Geometric Patterns 202

Fall Fabrics 204 Animal Prints 208 Fashion Designer Color Challenges 210 André Courrèges 211 Emilio Pucci/Carolina Herrera 212 Rudi Gernreich 213 Geoffrey Beene/James Galanos 214 Arnold Scaasi 215

Guest Artists Raya Clements 216 Eduarda Salmi Pereira 218

and Tulle250

CHAPTER 8 High-End Rendering Techniques 223 Sketching Ruffles 224 Sketching Cascades 226 Sketching Cowls 228 Sketching Smocking and Shirring 229 Gathers, Gores, Cowl Drape, and Pintucks 230 Changing Proportions 232 Bridal Looks 234 Bridal Trains 236 Dress and Gown Flats 238 Drape and Volume 240 Luxe Fabric Rendering 244 Black Fabric Rendering 246 Beading, Satin, Chiffon, Crystal Pleating, Feathers, Fringe, and Lace 252

Guest Artists Elizabeth Kennedy 254 Yuen Chi Lo 256 Carmen Chen Wu 260

Drawing Knits265

CHAPTER 9 Knit Essentials 266 Knitwear Flats 268 Basic Knit Stitches 270 Repeat Patterns 272 Cables and Combinations 276 Complex Knits 278 WWD Photo Reference 282

Guest Artists Anthony Manfredonia 284 Jodie Lau 286 Christina Kwon 288 Joseph Singh 290

Jose "Juni" Salgado 292

Design Focus and Layout295

CHAPTER 10 Design Direction 296 Attitude in a Pose 298 Design Emphasis 300 Stylization for Designers 302 Design Objectives 304 Design Journal Pages 308 Design Journal Thumbnail Sketches 310 WWD Designer Fitting Photos 311 Maximizing Design Impact 312 Composition Direction 314 Grouping Figures 316 Layout or Line Up 320

Guest Artists Julian Guthrie 324

Drawing Men329

CHAPTER 1 Menswear Figure Basics 330 Proportions for Menswear Figures 334 Runway Poses for Men 336 Elongation for Menswear 338 Drawing Men’s Legs 340 Drawing Men’s Arms and Hands 342 Drawing Men’s Heads 344 Drawing Men’s Hair 345 Clothing the Male Figure 346 Menswear Pants 348 Menswear Tops 350 Sketching a Suit 352 Menswear Flats 354 Design Journal Roughs 358 Marker Rendering for Menswear 360 Fashion Runway and Showroom Poses 362

Guest Artists Sascha Flowers 366 Neha Bhatia 368 Matthew Conmy 370

Julian Guthrie 372 Early Menswear Illustrations: 1900 to 1930 374

Drawing Children377

CHAPTER 12 Children’s Age Groups 378 Childrenswear Proportions 380 Infant 381 Toddler 382 Younger Child 383 viii EXTENDED CONTENTS ixEXTENDED CONTENTS

Child 384 Tween Boy 385 Tween to Teen 386 Teen Boy 387 Drawing Children’s Heads 388 Drawing Children’s Arms and Hands 390 Drawing Children’s Legs and Feet 392 Design Roughs for Childrenswear 394 Rendering Childrenswear 396 Flats for Children 398

Guest Artists Eri Mikami 400 Serena Chang 402 Callista Wolff 404 Anika Sushil Gupta 406 Early Childrenswear Illustrations: 1920 to 1930 408

Accessories411

CHAPTER 13 Jewelry Croquis 412 Jewelry Templates 414 Sunglasses 416 Hats and Gloves 418 Drawing Men’s Hats 420 Drawing Women’s Hats 421 Belts 422 Hardware for Belts and Bags 423 Handbags and Purses 424 Shoes 425 Footwear Designer Roughs 426 Sporty Shoes 428

Guest Artists LaToya Leflore 430 Jason Buchanon 432 Julian Guthrie 434

Malinda Franklin 436 Felice DaCosta 438 Early Accessories Illustrations: 1950s 440

FASHION ARCHIVE443
Credits475
Index477

Blouses, Skirts, and Dresses 120 Sketching Pants 122 Drawing Pants 124 Shorts and Pants 126 Sketching a Blazer 128 Drawing Jackets 130 Drawing Coats 132 Jackets and Coats 134

Guest Artists Aram Sung 136 Carmen Chen Wu 138

Drawing Flats and Specs141

CHAPTER 6 Flat Figure Templates 142 Figure Formulas for Flats 144 Tops: Templates for Shirts, Blouses, and Dresses 146

Pants, and Skirts148

Bottoms: Templates for Shorts,

Structure for Flats 150 Swimwear and Lingerie Flats 152 Comprehensive Flats 154 Women’s Outerwear Flats 156 Presentation or Portfolio Flats 158 Croquis Mixed with Flats 160 Flats and Figures Mixed 162 Specs 166 Measuring and Detailing for Specs 168 Analyzing a Garment for Flats or Specs 170 Flats and Specs 172 Spec Sheets 174

Guest Artists Christina Kwon 176 Jodie Lau 178

Basic Rendering Techniques181

CHAPTER 7 Rendering Fleshtones 182 Gouache 184 Mixing Colors for Watercolor 185 Rendering Fabrics in Watercolor 186 Reducing a Print 188 Finished versus Partial Rendering 190 Fabric Practice Templates 192 Color Testing 194 Color Nuances 196 Stripes 198 Checks, Gingham, and Plaids 200 Geometric Patterns 202

Fall Fabrics 204 Animal Prints 208 Fashion Designer Color Challenges 210 André Courrèges 211 Emilio Pucci/Carolina Herrera 212 Rudi Gernreich 213 Geoffrey Beene/James Galanos 214 Arnold Scaasi 215

Guest Artists Raya Clements 216 Eduarda Salmi Pereira 218

and Tulle250

CHAPTER 8 High-End Rendering Techniques 223 Sketching Ruffles 224 Sketching Cascades 226 Sketching Cowls 228 Sketching Smocking and Shirring 229 Gathers, Gores, Cowl Drape, and Pintucks 230 Changing Proportions 232 Bridal Looks 234 Bridal Trains 236 Dress and Gown Flats 238 Drape and Volume 240 Luxe Fabric Rendering 244 Black Fabric Rendering 246 Beading, Satin, Chiffon, Crystal Pleating, Feathers, Fringe, and Lace 252

Guest Artists Elizabeth Kennedy 254 Yuen Chi Lo 256 Carmen Chen Wu 260

Drawing Knits265

CHAPTER 9 Knit Essentials 266 Knitwear Flats 268 Basic Knit Stitches 270 Repeat Patterns 272 Cables and Combinations 276 Complex Knits 278 WWD Photo Reference 282

Guest Artists Anthony Manfredonia 284 Jodie Lau 286 Christina Kwon 288 Joseph Singh 290

Jose "Juni" Salgado 292

Design Focus and Layout295

CHAPTER 10 Design Direction 296 Attitude in a Pose 298 Design Emphasis 300 Stylization for Designers 302 Design Objectives 304 Design Journal Pages 308 Design Journal Thumbnail Sketches 310 WWD Designer Fitting Photos 311 Maximizing Design Impact 312 Composition Direction 314 Grouping Figures 316 Layout or Line Up 320

Guest Artists Julian Guthrie 324

Drawing Men329

CHAPTER 1 Menswear Figure Basics 330 Proportions for Menswear Figures 334 Runway Poses for Men 336 Elongation for Menswear 338 Drawing Men’s Legs 340 Drawing Men’s Arms and Hands 342 Drawing Men’s Heads 344 Drawing Men’s Hair 345 Clothing the Male Figure 346 Menswear Pants 348 Menswear Tops 350 Sketching a Suit 352 Menswear Flats 354 Design Journal Roughs 358 Marker Rendering for Menswear 360 Fashion Runway and Showroom Poses 362

Guest Artists Sascha Flowers 366 Neha Bhatia 368 Matthew Conmy 370

Julian Guthrie 372 Early Menswear Illustrations: 1900 to 1930 374

Drawing Children377

CHAPTER 12 Children’s Age Groups 378 Childrenswear Proportions 380 Infant 381 Toddler 382 Younger Child 383

The sixth edition of Fashion Sketchbook is in full color. It is completely revised, with updated drawing instructions and new images in every chapter. Many of the photos are Women’s Wear Daily fashion runway and showroom photos that inform and maximize lesson goals. The photos will inspire as well as fuel your fashion illustrations, with a stronger connection to the fashion design studio or classroom experience. The goal is to accelerate comprehension, application, and diversification of your drawing skills.

(Parte 1 de 5)

Comentários