fashion

fashion

(Parte 4 de 5)

Fine-point pen

.005 extra- fine-point pen

MediaLine Qualities

Flat Feld Seam: Jeans' Stitch

Kissing Zipper: with Crossover Stitch

Trapunto Stitching: Sometimes Padded Channels

Top Stitching: Seam to One Side

Vent: Also Called a Slit

Pintucks:

Close Together, Stitched Down

115FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILS114FASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching Skirts

Fashion Design Elongation:

Exaggerated leg length.

Flat Figure Template:

Realistic, equal leg length. See pants template.

On this diagram, each band of gray represents the hemline location, its name, and proportion in relationship to the legs.

Mid- Thigh

Knee

Mid- Calf

Ankle Toes

Micro

Mini or Tennis

Short

Above Knee

Knee

Below Knee

Midi

Maxi

Tea Ankle

Full or Long

Some drape or construction details are taken for granted and are too fine or tiny to illustrate on the dressed figure or in a flat. Here are a few things that can be done on your sketch.

Line quality makes the difference in a seam; use completed lines for seams; use broken lines for stitching. Practice drawing all types of lines with your extrafine and ultra-thin pens.

Fine-point pen

.005 extra- fine-point pen

MediaLine Qualities

Flat Feld Seam: Jeans' Stitch

Kissing Zipper: with Crossover Stitch

Trapunto Stitching: Sometimes Padded Channels

Top Stitching: Seam to One Side

Vent: Also Called a Slit

Pintucks:

Close Together, Stitched Down

117FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILS116FASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching Flares and Gathers

The flared or gathered skirt folds and moves on the body in a random, free-form way in direct opposition to a pleated skirt, which has an organized, exact style. To emphasize the movement of a flared skirt, draw each fold a different size from the next one. The folds of a skirt on the figure should follow the flow of the pose. Notice the widest fold comes off the high hip. The smallest fold comes from the center, and a third midsize fold rests on the low hip side.

Notice that the fabric on the flared skirt lies flat against the hipline, while the fabric on the gathered skirt puffs up away from the hipline at the waistband.

Flared Skirt

Gathered Skirt

A flounce has a straight seam, with a few folds. A ruffle has a gathered seam, with lots of folds.

Shape Folds Hemline Flared Skirt

Shape Folds Hemline Gathered Skirt

Few Drape Lines

Many Drape Lines

No Gathers: Flounce

With Gathers:

Ruffle

Notice that the rows on the tiered skirt are connected, while the rows on the layered skirts are separated.

Shape Folds Hemline Finish Gathers

Seams Layers

Flared Skirt Gathered Skirt

Tiered Skirt Layered Skirt

117FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILS116FASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching Flares and Gathers

The flared or gathered skirt folds and moves on the body in a random, free-form way in direct opposition to a pleated skirt, which has an organized, exact style. To emphasize the movement of a flared skirt, draw each fold a different size from the next one. The folds of a skirt on the figure should follow the flow of the pose. Notice the widest fold comes off the high hip. The smallest fold comes from the center, and a third midsize fold rests on the low hip side.

Notice that the fabric on the flared skirt lies flat against the hipline, while the fabric on the gathered skirt puffs up away from the hipline at the waistband.

Flared Skirt

Gathered Skirt

A flounce has a straight seam, with a few folds. A ruffle has a gathered seam, with lots of folds.

Shape Folds Hemline Flared Skirt

Shape Folds Hemline Gathered Skirt

Few Drape Lines

Many Drape Lines

No Gathers: Flounce

With Gathers:

Ruffle

Notice that the rows on the tiered skirt are connected, while the rows on the layered skirts are separated.

Shape Folds Hemline Finish Gathers

Seams Layers

Flared Skirt Gathered Skirt

Tiered Skirt Layered Skirt

119FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILS118FASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching Pleats

These pages demonstrate how to plan for drawing pleats. Each line on a pleated skirt usually has to match, unlike the folds in flares and gathers. Pleating is more regimented, organized, and systematic, regardless of fabric choice. This does not include engineered pleating in, for example, broomstick, mushroom, or crystal pleats.

Follow the body center and princess seam lines illustrated here. Start building the pleats, using these lines as guides. It is easier to start in the middle and move out.

Box Pleats

Notice how the panels—the narrow rectangular shapes—appear to be a bit closer together at the waist. They widen toward the bottom of the hem, opening up to show the back or inside of the pleat.

Princess Seam

Center Front

Shaped Panels Pleats Side Pleats

Shaped Panels Pleats

These three pleats break the rules, are drawn less regimented, and, like all pleats, can be done any size, anywhere on a garment.

Pleating

1. Mushroom 2. Broomstick

3. Accordian or Crystal

1. 2. 3. Hemlines Lettuce Edge

Broken Edge

Notice the variety of pleated hems. Sketching the correct pleated hem is a critical component for expressing your design.

Princess Seam Lines

Center Front LineBox Pleats

Hemline Length

Side Pleat Direction Extra Interior Pleating

Zigzag Edge

Mixed Pleats

Center Box Pleats

Side Pleats

Side Pleats Accordian

119FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILS118FASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching Pleats

These pages demonstrate how to plan for drawing pleats. Each line on a pleated skirt usually has to match, unlike the folds in flares and gathers. Pleating is more regimented, organized, and systematic, regardless of fabric choice. This does not include engineered pleating in, for example, broomstick, mushroom, or crystal pleats.

Follow the body center and princess seam lines illustrated here. Start building the pleats, using these lines as guides. It is easier to start in the middle and move out.

Box Pleats

Notice how the panels—the narrow rectangular shapes—appear to be a bit closer together at the waist. They widen toward the bottom of the hem, opening up to show the back or inside of the pleat.

Princess Seam

Center Front

Shaped Panels Pleats Side Pleats

Shaped Panels Pleats

These three pleats break the rules, are drawn less regimented, and, like all pleats, can be done any size, anywhere on a garment.

Pleating

1. Mushroom 2. Broomstick

3. Accordian or Crystal

1. 2. 3. Hemlines Lettuce Edge

Broken Edge

Notice the variety of pleated hems. Sketching the correct pleated hem is a critical component for expressing your design.

Princess Seam Lines

Center Front LineBox Pleats

Hemline Length

Side Pleat Direction Extra Interior Pleating

Zigzag Edge

Mixed Pleats

Center Box Pleats

Side Pleats

Side Pleats Accordian

121FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILS120FASHION SKETCHBOOK

Blouses, Skirts, and Dresses

Blouses

• Neckline and Shouldering Focus • Armhole and Center Front Details

• Sleeve and Cuff Shapes and Lengths

• Hemline Cut and Shaping

Skirts

• Waistline Fit and Drape • Hipline Shape and Volume

• Pocket or Related Side Seam Focus

• Hemline's Relationship to Knees

Dresses

• Neckline and Shoulderline Focus • Armhole and Sleeve Details

• Center Front or Back Closures

• Hemline Relationship to Knees

Isaac

Mizrahi Giambattista

Valli

Ralph Lauren

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Blumarine

121FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILS120FASHION SKETCHBOOK

Blouses, Skirts, and Dresses

Blouses

• Neckline and Shouldering Focus • Armhole and Center Front Details

• Sleeve and Cuff Shapes and Lengths

• Hemline Cut and Shaping

Skirts

• Waistline Fit and Drape • Hipline Shape and Volume

• Pocket or Related Side Seam Focus

• Hemline's Relationship to Knees

Dresses

• Neckline and Shoulderline Focus • Armhole and Sleeve Details

• Center Front or Back Closures

• Hemline Relationship to Knees

Isaac

Mizrahi Giambattista

Valli

Ralph Lauren

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Blumarine

123FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching Pants The examples here, shown from the waist to the ankle, focus on hemlines for the legs.

Shorts

For this garment the hemline length, from the thigh to the knee, will be important.

Capris

Here the hemline length has to show the spacing between calf to the ankle.

Bell-Bottom Pants

This hemline length has its own specific lengths from ankles to the toes (or shoe height).

Darts

Closed/Tailoring does not open

Tucks

Open/release in middle of its pinch

Pinch Pleats Open/release toward the outside

Pinch Pleats Open/release toward the inside

Paper Bag Drawstring Draped Yoke

Jeans, Western,

Continental Inseam Cargo Slash

Split VentCuffPeggedRolled-up Cuff

Raw Edged Stirrup

Tailoring

Think about how anything fits at the waist. How is that “fit” created? Here are some examples.

Waistline Treatments

Here are a few design features for above, below, or at the waist to practice.

Pockets

Pockets often start by the princess seamlines, then swing over to the side seamline.

Hemline Treatments

Drawing hemlines, as they drape over the foot, usually includes sketching the shoe.

123FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching Pants The examples here, shown from the waist to the ankle, focus on hemlines for the legs.

Shorts

For this garment the hemline length, from the thigh to the knee, will be important.

Capris

Here the hemline length has to show the spacing between calf to the ankle.

Bell-Bottom Pants

This hemline length has its own specific lengths from ankles to the toes (or shoe height).

Darts

Closed/Tailoring does not open

Tucks

Open/release in middle of its pinch

Pinch Pleats Open/release toward the outside

Pinch Pleats Open/release toward the inside

Paper Bag Drawstring Draped Yoke

Jeans, Western,

Continental Inseam Cargo Slash

Split VentCuffPeggedRolled-up Cuff

Raw Edged Stirrup

Tailoring

Think about how anything fits at the waist. How is that “fit” created? Here are some examples.

Waistline Treatments

Here are a few design features for above, below, or at the waist to practice.

Pockets

Pockets often start by the princess seamlines, then swing over to the side seamline.

Hemline Treatments

Drawing hemlines, as they drape over the foot, usually includes sketching the shoe.

125FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Drawing Pants

Here are some drawing issues that distract from your design silhouette focus:

1. Drawing knees too high up on the thigh can interfere with pocket shapes. 2. Drawing knees too low on the leg can throw off your figure proportions. 3. Knees drawn centered on the leg are never a problem with garment detailing.

Pant Fit and Cut Proportions

Above or High Waist

Waist Dropped Waist

Low Rider or Hip-Hugger

Short Shorts

Shorts

Mid-Thigh Above Knee

Below Knee

Mid-Calf

Above Ankle

Heel or Floor Length

Knee Level

Knee Level

Keeping the crotch, knees, and leg lengths in your figure groupings matching makes it easier to read your garments’ design proportions.

Posing Options

Below are some of the poses that can maximize the potential for your pants shapes and keep them from looking like long skirts.

Poses that maximize pants design and emphasize pant legs shape 1 2 3

125FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Drawing Pants

Here are some drawing issues that distract from your design silhouette focus:

1. Drawing knees too high up on the thigh can interfere with pocket shapes. 2. Drawing knees too low on the leg can throw off your figure proportions. 3. Knees drawn centered on the leg are never a problem with garment detailing.

Pant Fit and Cut Proportions

Above or High Waist

Waist Dropped Waist

Low Rider or Hip-Hugger

Short Shorts

Shorts

Mid-Thigh Above Knee

Below Knee

Mid-Calf

Above Ankle

Heel or Floor Length

Knee Level

Knee Level

Keeping the crotch, knees, and leg lengths in your figure groupings matching makes it easier to read your garments’ design proportions.

Posing Options

Below are some of the poses that can maximize the potential for your pants shapes and keep them from looking like long skirts.

Poses that maximize pants design and emphasize pant legs shape 1 2 3

127FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Shorts and Pants

Zipper Direction Can Change

Only for Womenswear Hemline Roll for Walking Pose

Watch Hemline to Ankle for Accurate Lengths

Inseam Focal Point or Not

Side Seam

Extra Fabric Crush or Long Hemline Detail

Below AnkleAnkle

Ralph Lauren

Dolce & Gabbana

Ralph Lauren

J. Crew

J. Crew

127FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Shorts and Pants

Zipper Direction Can Change

Only for Womenswear Hemline Roll for Walking Pose

Watch Hemline to Ankle for Accurate Lengths

Inseam Focal Point or Not

Side Seam

Extra Fabric Crush or Long Hemline Detail

Below AnkleAnkle

Ralph Lauren

Dolce & Gabbana

Ralph Lauren

J. Crew

J. Crew

129FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching a Blazer

A blazer often fits closer to the form of a figure than a jacket or a coat does. To suggest this closer fit you need to choose an appropriate pose to dress the figure in that blazer. In your sketch, follow and utilize the angles in the torso to plan the tailored details in the design of the garment. There is a direct relationship between the shoulderline and drawing the points in your collar, which is also true for the hipline and the pocket points. The fit or shape of a blazer may depend on the fabric weight or volume.

Blazer Shape and Length

Collar and Arm hole Depth

Pocket Placement

Hemline Widths and Their Shapes

Flat Focus: Construction Detail

Flat Focus: Shape and Styling

Most blazers have a lining inside their sleeves, so the sleeve fits the arm like a crisp cylindrical shape, without too much cling. Blazers often have specific tailoring, darts, or seaming that usually falls between the side and princess seams.

Collar Cut,

Width and Depth

Closure Over Center Front

First Blazer Panel

Hemline Follows End of Torso Angle in a Pose

Add Construction Detailing to Panel

Completed Sides,

Start on SleevesFInished, Ready for Rendering

129FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Sketching a Blazer

A blazer often fits closer to the form of a figure than a jacket or a coat does. To suggest this closer fit you need to choose an appropriate pose to dress the figure in that blazer. In your sketch, follow and utilize the angles in the torso to plan the tailored details in the design of the garment. There is a direct relationship between the shoulderline and drawing the points in your collar, which is also true for the hipline and the pocket points. The fit or shape of a blazer may depend on the fabric weight or volume.

Blazer Shape and Length

Collar and Arm hole Depth

Pocket Placement

Hemline Widths and Their Shapes

Flat Focus: Construction Detail

Flat Focus: Shape and Styling

Most blazers have a lining inside their sleeves, so the sleeve fits the arm like a crisp cylindrical shape, without too much cling. Blazers often have specific tailoring, darts, or seaming that usually falls between the side and princess seams.

Collar Cut,

Width and Depth

Closure Over Center Front

First Blazer Panel

Hemline Follows End of Torso Angle in a Pose

Add Construction Detailing to Panel

Completed Sides,

Start on SleevesFInished, Ready for Rendering

131FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Drawing Jackets

Below is an example of a short, cropped jacket with a boxy shape and a quilted surface. It fits the figure in a different way compared to the tailored shape of a blazer with a smooth surface that you saw on the previous pages. The tailored blazer was more fitted; this cropped jacket is less fitted.

(Parte 4 de 5)

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