fashion

fashion

(Parte 5 de 5)

1. Compare the left and right sides to determine the fuller side, which you will dress first.

2. Sketch the jacket shape over the chest on the fullest side of the figure.

3. Add volume to the collar so that it appears to roll around the back of the neck.

4. To sketch the jacket open or closed, follow center front line. Note in this view the far, turned side armhole is not seen. The sleeves are drawn in the same width on both arms.

Working on the Neck and Shoulders

Working on the Center-Front Closure

Jacket OpenJacket Closed

Full Armhole

1. Collar2. Full Side3. Turned Side4. Sleeves Closed OpenDraped Off the Shoulder

Hidden ArmholeHidden Sleeve

Cropped Jacket

Dual- Function Vest and Jacket

Boxy Jacket

Extra Featured Detailing Jacket

131FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Drawing Jackets

Below is an example of a short, cropped jacket with a boxy shape and a quilted surface. It fits the figure in a different way compared to the tailored shape of a blazer with a smooth surface that you saw on the previous pages. The tailored blazer was more fitted; this cropped jacket is less fitted.

1. Compare the left and right sides to determine the fuller side, which you will dress first.

2. Sketch the jacket shape over the chest on the fullest side of the figure.

3. Add volume to the collar so that it appears to roll around the back of the neck.

4. To sketch the jacket open or closed, follow center front line. Note in this view the far, turned side armhole is not seen. The sleeves are drawn in the same width on both arms.

Working on the Neck and Shoulders

Working on the Center-Front Closure

Jacket OpenJacket Closed

Full Armhole

1. Collar2. Full Side3. Turned Side4. Sleeves Closed OpenDraped Off the Shoulder

Hidden ArmholeHidden Sleeve

Cropped Jacket

Dual- Function Vest and Jacket

Boxy Jacket

Extra Featured Detailing Jacket

133FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Drawing Coats

Oversized Collar

Epaulet

Panel (Yoke)

Button Tab

Pocket Flap

Narrow Column Shape

Winter-weight Fabric with Subtle Contouring to Keep Hemline from Looking Too Stiff or Not Too Soft

Design Features— Column Shape

Narrow Rectangle

Wider A-line Coat Shape

Oversized Collar Epaulet

Panel

Pocket Flap Button Tab

To emphasize the design and shape of the garment, a coat can be sketched closed or open to reveal the outfit beneath the coat.

A. This coat has been sketched closed on a subtle pose with just enough slouch in the hip to swing the coat open.

B. Here the hip is used to pull the coat open but only on one side, keeping the coat’s shape narrow.

C. This wide leg pose flips the coat open. Notice the hemline has an elliptical curve as it circles the form, front to back.

D. To keep the coat’s shape, draw the coat in two separate units. One side draped over the body, the other side falling behind the body.

Cropped Shrug Bolero Bell Boy

Waist Military Hoodie Shorty

Jacket Blazer Cardigan Peacoat

Coat Length to Full Length

133FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Drawing Coats

Oversized Collar

Epaulet

Panel (Yoke)

Button Tab

Pocket Flap

Narrow Column Shape

Winter-weight Fabric with Subtle Contouring to Keep Hemline from Looking Too Stiff or Not Too Soft

Design Features— Column Shape

Narrow Rectangle

Wider A-line Coat Shape

Oversized Collar Epaulet

Panel

Pocket Flap Button Tab

To emphasize the design and shape of the garment, a coat can be sketched closed or open to reveal the outfit beneath the coat.

A. This coat has been sketched closed on a subtle pose with just enough slouch in the hip to swing the coat open.

B. Here the hip is used to pull the coat open but only on one side, keeping the coat’s shape narrow.

C. This wide leg pose flips the coat open. Notice the hemline has an elliptical curve as it circles the form, front to back.

D. To keep the coat’s shape, draw the coat in two separate units. One side draped over the body, the other side falling behind the body.

Cropped Shrug Bolero Bell Boy

Waist Military Hoodie Shorty

Jacket Blazer Cardigan Peacoat

Coat Length to Full Length

135FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Jackets and Coats

Jackets

Fabric Weight

Collar Volume

Sleeve Width and Length

• Thicker collar and cuffs • Deeper, wider armholes

• Center front details

• Hemline in relationship to waist- or kneeline

Coats

• Chunkier collars

• Thicker fabrics

• Wider sleeves

• Deeper armholes

• Closure details

• Sleeve length and cuffs

• Pockets

• Buttons and trims

• Hemline relative to ankles

Ralph Lauren

M MissoniNarciso Rodriguez

TSEMichael Kors

Chloé

135FIVE | GARMENTS AND GARMENT DETAILSFASHION SKETCHBOOK

Jackets and Coats

Jackets

Fabric Weight

Collar Volume

Sleeve Width and Length

• Thicker collar and cuffs • Deeper, wider armholes

• Center front details

• Hemline in relationship to waist- or kneeline

Coats

• Chunkier collars

• Thicker fabrics

• Wider sleeves

• Deeper armholes

• Closure details

• Sleeve length and cuffs

• Pockets

• Buttons and trims

• Hemline relative to ankles

Ralph Lauren

M MissoniNarciso Rodriguez

TSEMichael Kors

Chloé

136 FASHION SKETCHBOOK

The media mix for this design is gouache and pencil for both of the capsule collections, two different fabric stories, and the colorways. The posed figures play up the layered silhouettes, construction details, and color coordinations. Static figures complement the more contemporary linear shaping and neutral color palette in the alternative collection.

136 FASHION SKETCHBOOK

The media mix for this design is gouache and pencil for both of the capsule collections, two different fabric stories, and the colorways. The posed figures play up the layered silhouettes, construction details, and color coordinations. Static figures complement the more contemporary linear shaping and neutral color palette in the alternative collection.

138 FASHION SKETCHBOOK

The media mix for this design is gouache, pencil, and acrylic or Pro-White (brighter than gouache whites) on a single sheet of faux woodgrain paper (parchment paper is an alternative choice). Her inventive figure art emphasizes design silhouette and construction detail. Flats of her tops are drawn on vellum paper and pinned to pivot on their page.

138 FASHION SKETCHBOOK

The media mix for this design is gouache, pencil, and acrylic or Pro-White (brighter than gouache whites) on a single sheet of faux woodgrain paper (parchment paper is an alternative choice). Her inventive figure art emphasizes design silhouette and construction detail. Flats of her tops are drawn on vellum paper and pinned to pivot on their page.

(Parte 5 de 5)

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